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Hidden Mickey's how do you know if there scrappers?

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Hidden Mickey's how do you know if there scrappers?

iheartpins

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I just started. I know some of the things. Like paint chips, color ect... But I see a lot of hidden mickey's on peoples trading. I thought those were really over run with scrappers? I am pretty sure I got some last month when I was in WDW. It was my first time trading. Didn't know about all of that. I haven't put them on pinpics. Too afraid of them being scrappers. I just wonder about trading for them too? I wouldn't want to accuse someone. I feel a little strange asking too. :shock: I don't want to offend someone.
 
Don't worry about offending anyone if you're asking for authenticity. Most traders, I think, won't mind helping you out. None of us care for scrappers and it's a good thing to enlighten new people into the hobby about what troubles exist and what to do about them.

Hidden Mickeys get scrappered a lot so I'm pretty sure any trader should be okay with questions concerning trading them. The easier ways of telling if an HM is scrap or not is by the Mickey head; disproportionate ears to head ratio is a pretty big sign. If your Mickey head has huge ears and a tiny head, you've probably got a scrapper. Color is a good indicator, too. If your pin is supposed to have a yellow part and the pin you've got seems to have a neon yellow bordering on green, it's probably a scrapper. Skin tones never look right on scrappers and paint lines tend to be way too thick. Some pins also have odd parts filled in or skipped entirely in the painting process. Unless Pinpics notes that the authentic pin has a paint error, anything that looks suspicious should be taken into account.

Also, just a little note, if you ever wonder about a pin or a set of pins you specifically own that you'd like to double check here on the boards, the Pin Comparison section will get your questions answered pretty quickly.
 
Rough edges that are sharp to your finger. Real ones will be smooth. Faded paint, dips, pits. Loose posts on the back (although real ones can get loosend.) Wrong series number on back or year. Example, says 1 fo 4 when the real one is 3 or 4. Feels light weight and makes a click when tapped on the table not a higher pitched ching.

If it's pretty close and hard to tell, I say whatever and put it in my collection. Its a hidden mickey after all. I know some go for a few dollars now but those are more about the thrill of completing the set for me.
 
Rough edges that are sharp to your finger. Real ones will be smooth. Faded paint, dips, pits. Loose posts on the back (although real ones can get loosend.) Wrong series number on back or year. Example, says 1 fo 4 when the real one is 3 or 4. Feels light weight and makes a click when tapped on the table not a higher pitched ching.

If it's pretty close and hard to tell, I say whatever and put it in my collection. Its a hidden mickey after all. I know some go for a few dollars now but those are more about the thrill of completing the set for me.
thats a good answer!! Good to know!!
 
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